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Handweaving
is composed of lengthwise long yarn called the warp (seda) crossed by
widthwise yarn called the weft (lehma). Weaving began in ancient Egypt and
was a home production in rural homes. Cities like Akhmim and the village of
Abu Shaara in the Nile Delta became famous for this type of craft. Generally
speaking, Egypt is famed for its Coptic weaving in addition to papyrus which
was one of its principal exports in the ancient world.
During the
middle kingdom, the ancient Egyptians began to cultivate cotton and named it
the tree of wool. At the time, linen was the main material used in weaving.
Egypt produced linen as soft as silk for kings, princes, and mummification
practices. and rough linen for the lay people. Most houses in ancient Egypt
had their looms and the craft was handed down from one generation to the next
until today. The craft is still carried out in the same way today as in
ancient times. With the rise of the industrial revolution, steam, and energy,
hand-looms slowly gave way to mechanical looms which led to the downwards
spiral of towns producing the craft. Only a few towns/villages remain in
Egypt that continue to produce using hand-looms such as Sakyet Abu Shaara
village in Ashmoun, Mounofeyya in which every household still has a hand-loom
to produce internationally renowned handwoven silk carpets as well as Harania
village in Giza, Akhmim, and others, where weaving is the principal source of
income.
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(Description
of the element (not to exceed 300 words What , who, where, how, when
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1. Providing daily needs of citizens
2. Main source of income for works in
this profession
3. Presenting tourists visiting Egypt
with authentic Egyptian products
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Present function of the element
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Naim,
Dr. Hanna. “Hand-weaving in Akhmim.” (Presented as part of research to the
Industrial Modernization Center).
Zaki,
Safaa. “Women of Spinning and Weaving: Economic and Social Conditions.” Data
prepared by Arab Research Center.
Mohei
el Din, Ashraf, Cairo: The Forum for Women in Development (FWID), 1999: Page
263. 1st ed.
Ammar,
Abdel Rahman. “History of the Egyptian Art of Weaving,” Cairo: Nahdet Misr
Publishing Group. 1974.
Omar,
Ismail Raafat, “Study of Akhmim Weaving and How to Gain From it Creatively in
the Field of Weaving.” Doctorate Thesis, Helwan University, Faculty of Arts.
Cairo: 1982.
El
Zoghby, Kawthar and Ensaf Nasr. “Studies in Weaving” (Weaving Fibers, Setting
up Fabric, Dyeing, Printing, Yarn Composition, Bleaching, Preparation) Cairo:
Dar el Fikr el Arabi Publishing. 1993: Page 464. 4th ed.
Abdel
Rasoul, Thoraya Mahmoud. “Animal Elements: Documentation and Classification
of Islamic Textiles until the end of the Fatimid Period.” Cairo: General
Egyptian Book Organization. Page 280.
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Written sources from books & references
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The archival
data related to this topic at the Egyptian Archives of Folk Life and Folk
Traditions
Number of
videos: 701
Number of pictures: 4006
Number of voice recordings: 35
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Audio-Visual Sources concerning the element Archives, Museums or oral
traditions
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Skills related
to arts and traditional crafts
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Domains
represented by the element
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Tools:
Handloom comprised of:
Al Zarakoun,
Al Matwa, Al Rawwah, Al Daffa (Beater), Al Makouk (Shuttle), Al Misht (Reed),
Al Dork, Al Dawwassa (Treadle), Al Marwaha, Shabaket al Rassm, Al Sahabat
Machines: Tools aiding in loom and yarn preparation: Al Maboush, Al Dolab, Al
Haweel
Material:
Fashion:
Products: Fabric, Carpets, Curtains, Tablecloths, Linens, Bedcovers, Scarves
Other:
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Material Aspects of the element
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Intangible
Oral Culture: “Runs like a shuttle”: a saying that expresses speed in
execution
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Intangible
Aspects
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Workplace
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Situations where element is practiced
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Teaching or Heriditary
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Means of transmission
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Reduced occurrence
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Present Condition of the Element
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Protecting the
element and recording it through the Egyptian Archives of Folk Life and Folk
Traditions
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Current
and recent efforts and measures to safeguard the element
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Regulations
threatening the element:
1. Using electric motor to wind the bobbin in the presence of children with
the female workers/artisans.
2. There is no
obligatory routine checkup to assess the effect of inhaling dust from cotton
lint continuously during the weaving process.
Factors
threatening the element’s transfer:
1. Small size of most working spaces and their
overcrowding of the space due to the size of the loom and the yarn stock.
2. Lack of industrial safety such as fire
extinguishing equipment in the workplace.
Other:
3. Artisans sit crouched below the loom which can lead
to future health problems.
4. Reliance of women workers on their eyesight
above 40 years of age, especially those involved in the finishing of the
product using a needle.
5.
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Endangering
factors of the safeguarding of the element
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1. Gathering and documenting crafts through the
Egyptian Archives for Folk Life and Folk Traditions
2. Training and developing new guidelines and
trainers for the craft of weaving
3.
Creating markets and exhibitions specialized
in woven products
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(Suggestions
for protecting the element (procedures for protection
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Mona - Atef
Gouda Abdel Reheem
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Names of informants and professional practitioners
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Women, men,
and young people (both girls and boys) work in this craft. Each has a
specific role such as: principal weaver, assistant weaver, marwaha worker, shuttle
bobbin winder, heddle and reed threader, finishing worker (woman).
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Description of groups – institutions – individuals - organizations of
practitioners or participants of the element
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The Egyptian
Society for Folk Traditions
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Organizations
that take care of the element/practitioners; i.e. NGOs,syndicates (if
available)
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Agreeing to
participate in the documentation of the element and its protection
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Contribution
to ensuring visibility and awareness and to encouraging dialoguge
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There are no restrictions
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Restrictions (if available) for using the data of the element
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There are no
copyright issues concerning the collected data
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Respect for customary practices governing access
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